Street Level Espresso Expressions

So the night your Hedonista was perched at the bar at Clive’s enjoying the Heed the Hedonist tiki drink, a motorcycle jacket-bedecked fellow named Ken Gordon suggested a story be done on his humble coffee shop/espresso bar. So, the very next day we met up at his second (and arguably first) home so he could treat me to a sampling of his liquid fare of a different, more uplifting kind than those liqueur lovelies poured out at Clive’s.

Ken’s place – Street Level Espresso – opened on September 10, 2008, replacing an outgoing coffeehouse (that apparently went by the name of Ambient’s). Ken dubbed his establishment “Street Level Espresso” for two reasons: (1) because the space has a series of large, floor-to-ceiling glass-laden doors that open right  up to the – yup, you guessed it – street level, and (2) because, according to Ken, espresso is “the closest thing to whiskey neat” in the coffee world.

Situated in the heart of Victoria’s financial district – which means a stone’s throw to three of the major banks and the downtown shopping mall – Street Level Espresso draws in über pedestrian traffic. Ken is a purist coffee mixologist, which means the menu and ambiance of his cafe are very back-to-basics.  Menu-wise, Ken sells coffee and its variants – no pastries, cakes, salads, or sammys (for that, you can go next door to the Dutch Bakery & Coffee Shop, which has been around since 1956 and offers those comfort-food pastries made in-house from a recipe book dating back at least that long ago). Ambiance-wise, Ken’s café is a white-walled, red-accented, metallic-counter topped, retro-outfitted hole-in-the-wall with less that 10 seats and no bathroom (once again, for that, you can go next door to the 50-year-old-plus Dutch Bakery) – a set-up which, says Ken, “avoids the heroin addicts.” The interior design is made up of artwork that is exclusively framed black and white photography from local artists and Street Level’s music is played on an old vinyl-playin’ turntable that’s been turned on its side and propped up against the back wall. Ken stated his back-to-basics philosophy on coffee (and life) simply:

“I like to keep it analog.”

He also has a friend by the name of Gareth Kyle Gaudin who provides all of his graphics in the form of a cartoon character dubbed “Perogy Cat.” Perogy Cat – a jaded-yet-sassy pillowcase-shaped feline – adorns the walls in the form of retail signage and every single to-go cup in the form of black-ink stamp art. As Ken puts it:

“My graphics look like drunk children make them.”

Ken’s background is welded to the coffee industry. With his beginnings as a barista at Starbucks in 1990, Ken soon worked his way up, training other staff within a year. Once he made it as far as he could at that store (i.e., manager), he began consulting others on how to start espresso operations – which, of course, naturally led him to his own operation – and so Street Level Espresso was born. Ken was also Canada’s third place Barista Champion (Western Regional) in 2007 while he was working at Victoria’s Habit Coffee & Culture and so he’s training his one and only employee – Mal Kryklywyj (pronounced [krik' levvy]) – in preparation for the upcoming Canadian Barista Championships; the Western Regional competition is to take place in Vancouver, B.C. on July 21st and 22nd. She just may have a shot (pun intended) if she’s using Ken’s blends and techniques, as the following tasting notes reveal:

Espresso ($2.50 CDN): Because two shots are better than one, double shots only is the rule at Street Level. Refreshing (as all espresso should be) with a citrus-front and smoky finish, Ken’s beans are 40% unwashed; the cherry casing dries around the bean and, left on, contributes a citric acid quality.

Cappucino ($3.25 CDN): Ken serves up this Italian-style coffee drink, made with espresso and hot milk with a steamed foam topping, with panache – and, once again, that citrus bite … not to mention that charming leaf design on the foam.

Mocha ($6.00 CDN): Mmmmm … mocha…. By far my most beloved of Ken’s beverages (but, hey, I’m a self-professed chocophile). With this drink, Ken pairs the citrusy bean with a chocolate from French chocolate maker Michel Cluizel (a personal fav chocolatier of mine). Cluizel’s Mangaro is sourced from a cacao plantation that was formerly a mango plantation until a hurricane knocked it down; again, the citric acid in the chocolate pairs with the coffee bean.

So the next time you’re in Vic, make it a double-shot at a place that’s very expressive of its founder.

(Better yet, add chocolate.)

Note: In order to comply with FTC Act 16 C.F.R. 255, Heed the Hedonist would like to disclose that it does receive media “comps” and/or media discounts – but not in exchange for favorable coverage, or for withholding unfavorable coverage, of the given venue/meal/performance/product/service.