Teaophilic Treatise (Part II of IV): The Empress Impresses
December 10, 2009 by Hedonista · Leave a Comment
So now that you now possess an impressive background regarding the history of tea traditions in Great Britain, dear hedonists, it’s time to review first-hand some must-know places when it’s tea that you crave.
The first to review is perhaps the most well-known: the afternoon tea service at the Fairmont Empress. (where your Hedonista was recently hosted as a media guest) Served over one and one-half hours (give or take) in the Tea Lobby the traditional style – complete with tea server to place the napkin in your lap, dole out your sugar lumps, and pour your tea – the Empress really doesn’t mess around: they even train key staff as tea sommeliers!
There are a choice of eight teas, with personality-charged names: Jasmine Butterfly, Berry Berry, Kea Lani Orange Pineapple, Borengajuli Assam, Margaret’s Hope, Willow Stream Spa Blend, Fairmont Earl Grey, and their Signature “Tea at the Empress” Blend. Your Hedonista sampled the last three. The Willow Stream Spa blend is a a decaffeinated tea produced on a co-op called Clearwater in Zimbabwe, Africa. A cleansing tea with sweet, caramel-malt undertones. The Fairmont Earl Grey is all you expect of an Earl Grey – floral bergamot tones – but with a smoky twist. The Signature “Tea at the Empress” Blend is a very deep, heady blend of Kenyan green tea, Kenyan black tea, Dimbula from Sri Lanka and a smidge of Kemum. A fruit-meets-woody-earth complexity that works – think the brandy of the tea world.
The noshies include the usual tasty tea-time treats: finger sandwiches, scones and sweet pastries. The digit sammies – wild pacific salmon with cream cheese on rye (fab); organic shredded carrot with ginger on whole wheat (would have liked a bit more ginger); mushroom pâté with truffle oil on herbed whole wheat crostinis (perfect – your Hedonista LOVES the
truffle oil), mango curried chicken salad on rye (de-lish); and cucumber with horseradish on mayo (really wanted some red onion here). The golden raisin scones were very nice. (Note well, dear hedonists: the jam simply must go onto the scone first, followed by the crème fraîche … or the jam simply won’t stay put!). The pastries were also lovely with the Earl Grey shortbread the absolute highlight. The lemon tart with strawberry was refreshingly tart; the chocolate ganache sponge cake was nicely balanced with the vanilla butter cream; the window-shaped Battenberg cake, complete with marzipan “frame” – was both delicious and eye-appealing; and the French Valrhona chocolate cup impregnated with a drunken Okanagan Cherry was the perfect finisher. All this … and you get to walk away with a box of their tea to enjoy at home.

- This Empress Tea China pattern – originally presented to King George V in 1914 for the Booth factory opening in Stoke, England – was first used my the (Fairmont) Empress in 1939 for the Royal Visit of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth. This pattern is now produced by Royal Doulton exclusively for the Fairmont Empress – and conveniently available for purchase in their gift shop.
So, if you desire the Empress Afternoon Tea experience and are willing to pay $44 in the off-season, or $55 in the high season – “high season” being defined as the Olympics, December, and May-September. Go for it. Come to think of it, why not kick it up a notch and add another $12 and enjoy the Afternoon “Royal” Tea (which includes a a glass of award-winning champagne: Sumac Ridge Steller’s Jay Brut).
Or just hold off until the Centennial Tea returns – an afternoon tea they introduced in 2008 for the 100th birthday of the Empress. I hear they’re seriously thinking of bringing it back, complete with champagne, caviar, and who knows what decadence. Just remember: that’s “c” for centennial … century … and … c-note.
And, if moula movement is an issue, just come to this year’s Victoria Tea Festival in February and visit the Empress Table. Last year they gave away a 50% off coupons to those who took the time to stop by and say hello (proof that being polite pays). At $22, afternoon tea is better than a deal – it’s a downright steal!


